HELMETS

Most advice on what helmet to wear starts with the vehicle: pedal cycle; PEV; or motorcycle.

How fast you go, where you ride and how you would probably fall decide what protection makes sense.

This guide gives way to both of the options listed here: cycling helmets; or modular/full motorcycle helmets.

It also covers what the certification labels mean and which fit details to check before you spend money.

It is a framework for choosing, so for specific models you will be sent to two reviews on this site.

Choose the helmet for your top speed, not your vehicle

Your top speed matters more than your average speed.

A fall happens at the moment you are going fastest, or at the moment something unexpected happens at whatever speed you happen to be doing.

A rider who averages 20 mph but regularly hits 30-40 mph ANYWHERE is a 50-65 kph rider as far as head protection goes.

Find out your real top speed before you shop.

Use the scooter’s display, a GPS app on your phone or the speed readout on your vehicle’s controller.

Many riders are surprised by the number, in both directions.

Here is a practical way to sort riders.

These bands are a rule of thumb for narrowing your choice, not an industry standard:

• 30-40 mph (Threshold): a well-fitting, certified cycling helmet is a reasonable baseline, especially on shared paths and quiet streets. Full coverage matters. Look at how far down the back of the head it reaches and consider a model with extra temple and rear coverage, or add chin protection.
• Gas/Electric: Step up to a helmet with full coverage PLUS full features (Bluetooth/Intercom/ETC.)This is where full-face, modular/motorcycle helmets enter the picture.

Three other factors shift you up or down a band:

1. Surface and environment. Rough pavement, potholes, train tracks and wet leaves cause the sudden stops that throw a rider off. A smooth bike path is a different risk from a pitted urban road.
2. Traffic. Falling alone is one risk. Being hit by or sliding into a car carries more energy than the same speed on an empty path.
3. How you fall off your particular vehicle. Scooters have small wheels that stop dead in a pothole, and the rider tends to go forward over the bars, face and chin first. EUC’s have no handlebars to hold, so falls often end with a backward or sideways hit on the back of the head and the hands. Motorcycles carry more weight and usually more speed on roads, and the impact tends to involve the whole body.

Those fall patterns are why chin protection comes up so often for scooters, and why rear coverage matters on an EUC.

Check local law as well.

Rules on helmet requirements for pedalcycles, PEV’s and/or motorcycles differ by country, state and city.

Some places treat a fast machine as a moped or motorcycle, which can bring a requirement for a specific helmet type.

Your local transport authority is the place to confirm this.

What the certification stickers on a helmet actually tell you

Every helmet standard is a set of lab tests, and a sticker means the helmet passed that particular set.

It does not say the helmet is the right choice for your speed or your vehicle.

Most standards were written for pedalcycles or motorcycles, and PEVs sit between the two.

Look inside the helmet, usually on a label under the padding or on the strap, for these marks:

• CPSC (United States, bicycle helmets). The federal standard for helmets sold as bicycle helmets in the US. It is the usual baseline for cycling helmets.
• EN 1078 (Europe, cycling, skateboarding and roller skating). The European standard that covers pedal-cycle helmets and also skateboard and roller-skate use.
• NTA 8776 (Netherlands). A Dutch standard written for helmets used on fast e-bikes (speed pedelecs). It is a more demanding test than the standard bicycle one, and finding it on a helmet signals that the maker designed it with higher speeds in mind. Few helmets carry it, so it will not be available everywhere.
• ASTM F1952 (downhill mountain bike full-face). A standard for full-face helmets used in downhill mountain biking. These helmets are tested for chin bar strength, which is why they are a popular choice for fast scooter and e-bike riders who want something lighter than a motorcycle helmet.
• ASTM F1492 (skateboarding). The skate helmet standard in the US, covering helmets designed for repeated, lower-energy impacts.
• DOT (FMVSS 218, United States, motorcycle). The legal minimum for motorcycle helmets on US roads. Manufacturers certify their own helmets under DOT, and counterfeit stickers exist, so buy from a reputable seller.
• ECE 22.06 (Europe and many other countries, motorcycle). The current version of the UN regulation for motorcycle helmets. Compared with the older 22.05, it covers a wider range of impact points and includes a test for rotational forces.
• Snell. A voluntary standard from an independent non-profit. Snell testing is generally stricter than the legal minimums, and Snell-certified helmets exist for motorcycle and some bicycle uses.

Two practical points follow from this list.

First, a motorcycle certification does not make a helmet automatically better for you.

It means it was built for higher-speed, higher-energy impacts, with the weight, heat and bulk that come with that.

Second, a cycling certification is not a weakness in itself.

It means the helmet was designed for a lighter, better-ventilated job, and that suits a lot of riding.

When you shop, match the sticker to the riding.

If the vehicle is legally treated as a motorcycle where you live, the sticker your law names comes first.

For everything else, a recognised standard that fits your top speed is the target.

Cycling helmets: where they are enough and where they run out

A cycling helmet is light, ventilated and cheap compared with the alternatives.

For these reasons riders actually wear them, and a helmet that stays on your head every ride protects better than a stronger one left at home.

They work well when:

• Your top speed stays in the lower band, around cycling speeds.
• You ride on bike lanes, shared paths or quiet streets.
• Your rides are short and frequent, such as a commute or errands.
• Heat is a concern, since the vents move a lot of air.

They run out of coverage in a few predictable places:

• No chin or face protection. On a scooter, a forward fall often lands on the chin and face, and an open helmet leaves those areas bare.
• Limited rear and lower coverage. Many cycling helmets end high at the back of the skull. On a skateboard or a backward tumble, the impact zone can sit lower than the edge of the shell.
• Design assumptions. The shell and foam are built around the energy of a pedalled bicycle. A throttle-driven machine can carry a rider to speeds well beyond that.

If you are weighing an everyday cycling helmet for e-bike or scooter use, the review of the Giro Fixture MIPS II on this site looks at whether a mainstream cycling helmet is enough for electric riding.

Cycling-style helmets with extended rear coverage, and skate-style helmets with a rounder, lower shape, sit between a standard road helmet and a full-face.

If your top speed is modest and your main fear is a back-of-head hit on a skateboard, one of those can fit better than a ventilated road helmet.

Check the certification label to confirm it is tested to a standard that covers your use.

Half-shell, full-face and modular: the middle ground for faster PEVs

Between a cycling helmet and a full motorcycle helmet, three styles cover most faster-PEV riders.

Their differences come down to how much of the head and face they cover, how heavy they are and how hot they run.

Half-shell (open-face)

A half-shell helmet resembles a motorcycle helmet without the chin bar.

It covers more of the back and sides of the head than a typical cycling helmet, often with a visor or space for goggles.

It suits riders who want more rear and side coverage while keeping the open feel.

It still leaves the face and chin exposed, so it addresses only part of the scooter fall problem.

Full-face (bike-style)

A full-face bicycle helmet, the kind built for downhill mountain biking, adds a rigid chin bar to a vented shell.

The ASTM F1952 label tells you the chin bar was tested.

These helmets are usually much lighter than motorcycle helmets, and they have generous airflow and a peak for sun and rain.

For a rider who wants face protection and still rides in warm weather or pushes the helmet uphill on foot, this style is a strong middle option for fast scooters and e-bikes.

Their limits come from the same design choices: they are built for the speeds and impacts of bicycle riding, and they are not a substitute for a motorcycle-rated helmet at sustained road speeds.

Modular (flip-up)

A modular helmet has a chin bar that hinges up so you can open the front.

That helps with talking, drinking, putting on and removing glasses, and ventilation at traffic lights.

It is heavier than a bike-style full-face because of the hinge mechanism.

Check the label for how the helmet is rated.

Some modular helmets are certified only with the chin bar locked down, and a few carry a dual rating that also covers the open position.

Wear it closed while riding unless the label clearly says otherwise.

If a modular with built-in communications is on your shortlist, the K1 modular helmet review covers whether its Bluetooth intercom is worth it for a PEV rider.

Which of the three fits your ride? A rough guide:

• Hot climate, short hops, face protection wanted: bike-style full-face.
• Cooler climate, longer rides, comfort and communication valued: modular.
• Mainly worried about rear and side coverage and keen to keep the open feel: half-shell.

Motorcycle helmets on a PEV: when the extra weight is worth it

A full-face motorcycle helmet is the most protective option here, and it is built for impacts at road speeds.

It also costs you in weight, heat, noise and bulk.

Whether that trade is worth it depends on how you ride.

The case for a motorcycle helmet gets stronger when:

• Your top speed is high and sustained. If you cruise at the upper end of the speed range, the helmet needs to match the energy involved.
• You ride with car traffic. Road crashes involve harder surfaces and heavier objects than path falls.
• The vehicle is legally a motorcycle or moped where you ride. The law may name DOT or ECE helmets explicitly, and a cycling helmet may leave you unprotected legally as well as physically.
• Your machine is powerful. Dual-motor scooters and high-power electric skateboards and bikes can accelerate and reach speeds that a lighter helmet was never designed for.

The costs are real:

• Weight. A full-face motorcycle helmet is often several times heavier than a cycling helmet. On a long ride that can mean neck fatigue, especially on a machine where you stand upright and absorb vibration through your legs.
• Heat. Motorcycle helmets ventilate less than bike helmets. In summer that can mean sweat on a short ride.
• Wind noise and field of view. At speed you hear wind roar, and a deep chin bar can restrict how far you can look down at the display or deck.
• Convenience. A bulky helmet is harder to carry on public transport or lock to a bike.

A helmet you leave behind because it is a hassle protects nothing.

For riders who spend half their journey on roads at speed, a motorcycle helmet is worth that hassle.

For riders who mostly use paths at moderate speeds, a lighter helmet worn every ride is the better choice.

Ride honestly in your own band and choose accordingly.

Other protection also matters at higher speeds.

Gloves, which protect hands when you put them out to break a fall, and wrist guards for skateboarders, deal with the injuries riders commonly get alongside head impacts.

Abrasion-resistant jackets and pants, and sturdy shoes, handle the rest of the body.

Fit, MIPS and the small details that matter more than price

A helmet only works if it is in the right place on your head when you crash.

A correctly fitted mid-priced helmet is a better choice than a poorly fitted expensive one.

Getting the fit right

• Measure your head. Wrap a soft tape around the widest part, just above your eyebrows and ears. Compare the number to the maker’s size chart, since sizing differs between brands.
• Position. The front edge should sit about two finger widths above your eyebrows. A helmet tipped back exposes your forehead, and one pulled low can block your view.
• Straps. The side straps should form a V just under each ear, and the buckle should sit under the chin. With the strap fastened, you should be able to fit one or two fingers between strap and chin.
• The shake test. With the strap fastened, push the helmet side to side and front to back. The skin on your forehead should move with it. A helmet that rolls over your head on its own is too big or poorly adjusted.
• Pressure points. Wear it for a few minutes in the shop or at home. A spot that feels tight now will be sore after an hour.
• Your other gear. Try the helmet with your usual glasses, sunglasses, cap or ear protection. A full-face should let you wear glasses comfortably.

What MIPS and similar systems do

MIPS (Multi-directional Impact Protection System) adds a thin low-friction layer inside the helmet that lets the shell rotate slightly relative to your head in an angled impact.

The aim is to reduce the rotational forces transferred to the brain.

Other manufacturers use their own systems with the same goal.

The research on how much these systems help in real crashes is still developing, so treat MIPS as a useful extra, not a reason to accept a poor fit or skip coverage you need.

If two helmets are otherwise equal in fit, certification and coverage, the one with a rotational system is the better pick.

Check the label or product page, since a helmet that advertises MIPS should say so clearly.

Small details that make a difference

• Replace after a crash. A helmet’s foam compresses when it absorbs an impact, and damage can be invisible. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance and replace any helmet that has taken a hard hit or a drop onto a hard surface.
• Check the age. Foam and straps degrade over time. Manufacturers give their own recommended service lives, so look up the one for your model and note the date on the label.
• Visibility. A bright shell colour, reflective patches and a rear light clipped to the back make you easier to see, which helps you avoid the crash in the first place.
• Visor and ventilation. A peak or visor shields sun and rain. Vents matter for summer, while a thin removable liner or a beanie helps in winter.
• Weight and balance. A helmet that is heavy at the front pulls your head forward. Pick it up before you buy, and imagine wearing it for the whole length of your longest regular ride.
• Price. Higher prices often buy lower weight, better ventilation, nicer finish and extras such as visors and communications. They do not guarantee a better fit for your head. Try several in your size range and buy the one that sits right and carries the certification you need.

Start with your top speed, check the sticker against the riding and the law where you live, and then pick the lightest helmet you will wear every ride that still covers what you actually risk.

This article is for informational purposes only.

It is not safety, legal or medical advice, and no helmet can prevent every injury.

Check your local rules and the manufacturer’s guidance for any helmet you buy.